Wednesday, May 3, 2023

Sulphur Mountain

Yesterday was our last full day in Banff!! We had an early start by packing up all our luggage and leaving it with the bellman about 7:30. Today we'd be taking the bus up to the Sulfur Mountain Gondola. One perk of staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs is they provided you a bus pass. Then the gondola would take us to the visitor center at the very top. We had made advanced reservations a couple of days before. It costs $75 CAD/person (~$55 USD). What a glorious day!! Sunny and warm. Highs in the 20's.  



We were on the 8:17 AM bus. It was about a ten minute bus ride to the gondola station. When we arrived only the staff was there. It appeared we'd be the first people up to the mountain this morning. It was the longest gondola ride I have ever had. Although it is at an elevation of almost 2500 meters so there is a bit of distance to travel. Once we arrived we had the place to ourselves. We walked around the first level and just took in the amazing scenery. We could see a higher peak off in the distance. 
 Would we try to get there?  

We went to the coffee shop and got some hot beverages. Angie had a chai latte and I went with good old fashioned hot chocolate. Both very good. When we finished those, we decided to see where the boardwalk led. The signs made it clear that you were on your own. The boardwalk had lots of stairs and viewing platforms. Just amazing views!! But no crowds. I compared it to the low crowds we had when we climbed the Great Wall in the off season many years ago. it was so much easier without tons of people We had made a great choice coming so early. And did I mention how great the weather was? So clear and sunny. I thought it would be so much colder at the top but it wasn't. I eventually made it to the top which is where an old weather station was situated. And a snowblower. Lots of snowblowers around when you need one. Angie waved from one level below!!


We then made the trek back to the visitor center. A few more people had come up in the gondolas but it still wasn't crowded. We then went to level four which was the observation deck and saw a bear!!! Oh my!! This bear was remarkably calm and collected. He or she seemed to be reflecting on something. And also guarding some chairs. We decided to sit down by the edge of the deck.
 And that's what we did for the next two hours. Just comfortably, enjoying the views. Angie caught up on some emails. More and more people came. They crowded the boardwalk. But we just had our comfortable chairs and a view. A really marvelous morning.

As the crowds continued, Angie checked the bus schedule and saw we could get either the 12:46 or 1:15. We decided to take the gondola down and catch the 12:46 bus. The ride down was a bit faster!! But just as glorious!!! Our bus came and we took it to downtown where we stopped for lunch at Farm and Fire and had a delicious Cobb Salad and breakfast bowl. Today was check out day from the Fairmont and we'd be checking into the Ptarmigan Inn which just happened to be next to the restaurant. 

 We checked in about 1:30 and our room was ready. We made a quick stop at the room and dropped off a bag we'd been carrying. Then we walked back to the Fairmont to get our luggage. But not before we made a few stops. First stop was at the Elk and Oarsmen. We had seen a rooftop bar the first day we were in downtown. Angie had done some investigation and found this was the bar!!! So we decided to head on up.

 We tried two beers from new breweries. And we had yet to try poutine on this trip so we also ordered the Elk Poutine. It was pretty tasty. The best is still the Butter Chicken poutine I had a few years ago. But this was good.  
After our snack, we continued the walk and went to the First Nations museum to learn a little bit about the indigenous people of this area. The museum had a lot of individual displays of clothing, artifacts, weapons and pictures.
 But not a lot of information on the people. Although they did have a buffalo skull that was over 6000 years old. I'm glad we went. The museum would be a lot better with a better curator. 

We made it back to the Fairmont, claimed our bags and took a taxi back to the Ptarmigan Inn. We had a mandatory rest period before our dinner reservation at 6. I watched the first couple of innings of the Red Sox and Blue Jays and then we headed to the restaurant. It was about a five minute walk. So many places to eat and drink here in downtown Banff!!  

The Maple Leaf was primarily steak and seafood. They had a special menu with items that focused on indigenous ingredients and cooking methods. Had a delicious mushroom starter and cinnamon cured salmon. 
 I was a bit nervous about the cinnamon being took strong. But it was very balanced. It also came with some wild dill which has a minty flavor. We went with the cowboy steak for our main. It was very flavorful. We asked for medium and most of it was cooked that way. Part of the steak was a little thinner so it was closer to medium well. But the flavor of the Canadian beef was so good it didn't matter. And this cut of steak is also fattier so it is more forgiving. A really great meal!! We also enjoyed another delicious Cab Franc from BC.  

Today starts the next leg of the adventure!! We'll be boarding the Rocky Mountaineer Train later this morning. It will stop in Kamloops tonight where we'll stay in a hotel. Then we'll be back on the train Thursday and travel to Vancouver. I am very excited for this train!! There is a full sky dome on the cars to take in all the views. More on that later and the full experience. We decided to book Gold Leaf service which is supposed to have upgraded meal options and other amenities.

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